So we’re here to answer the common inquiry: Which comes first, serum or moisturizer? Plus, we’ll dive into why each step is so essential and the best ingredients to look for. Let’s get into it. This is because moisturizers contain some occlusive ingredients, which help them trap moisture in the skin but prevent other ingredients from penetrating. So if you layer on a serum over your face cream, the likelihood of your skin absorbing that product and thus reaping all of the benefits is slim. However, there is one caveat here: “If you want to decrease the potency of a serum—like if it contains potentially irritating ingredients like retinol or salicylic acid, then applying a moisturizer first could help make the serum less potent and less irritating,” King notes. This technique is often referred to as the “retinol sandwich,” where you layer moisturizer under and over your retinol to buffer the effect. But should you do this with other serum ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C? No, unless you think these serums might trigger a negative reaction from the skin (which is pretty unlikely for most people). In fact, the deeper these ingredients can penetrate, the better. So to sum it all up: Potentially irritating serums can be buffered by using a moisturizer before and after, but otherwise, all serums should be applied first. This is always the first step, even if it’s just a splash of water in the morning. A clean canvas is necessary for all that follows. Many toners also include pre- and postbiotics, which help feed your skin microbiome. Plus, some essences add a boost of hydration. That being said, many of the ingredients found in this second step can be found in serums as well. On the flip side, if you’re using a hyaluronic acid serum, then you should definitely apply it to damp skin. See, hyaluronic acid, along with aloe vera and glycerin, is categorized as a humectant. Meaning, it pulls water into the skin, so you want to give it the water it needs to do its job properly. You can also layer serums, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C for a brightening, plumping duo. However, you should never mix retinol with vitamin C or chemical exfoliants, as most retinol formulas are not designed to interact with other actives. (More on serums 101 below.) This step is definitely a must, both day and night. Later, we’ll dive a bit deeper into why you should use these products on a daily basis and how to pick the best one for your skin. If you were to use a strong retinol or vitamin C serum that’s formulated for the face in this area, you run the risk of irritation (which can lead to more dark circles and wrinkles, we must note). Here’s a list of our top picks for each concern if you’re ready to shop. This method is often called “natural slugging,” as you’re applying an occlusive layer over the rest of your skin care but using a natural, botanically derived oil rather than petrolatum jelly. If you’re prone to breakouts, be sure to pick an oil that’s noncomedogenic, like jojoba, rosehip, or grapeseed oil. But on a technical level, “Serums have higher percentages of active ingredients in a light formulation that absorbs quickly and should be followed with a moisturizer,” King explains. Serums are viewed as the “treatment” step in your skin care routine. They’re probably your most potent product—and therefore are often the most expensive. While the standard skin care routine from a few years back called for actives in every single step (remember that chemical exfoliant craze?), the modern-day approach is totally different. “Instead, use really active ingredients placed within a really hydrating and barrier-supporting routine, whether it’s a professional treatment or your home care,” professional esthetician Sofie Pavitt once told mbg. But which ingredients you should choose ultimately depends on your skin type, goals, and what other products you’re using in your routine. As a cardinal rule: Don’t mix exfoliants with vitamin C or retinol—and be sure to use the potentially irritating ingredients on dry skin, or sandwich them if your skin is extra sensitive. It’s important to have each of these in your product to ensure all-around hydration. As stated above, humectants help pull in water, while emollients nourish and soften the skin, all to have occlusives lock it all in—you can read more about the different types of hydrators here. This combination helps to maintain a healthy skin barrier—and remember, skin care is a tool that helps you tend to your largest organ, not just work on aesthetics. So put some time and effort into picking a product that’s best for you (and one that you’ll want to use every day). Here are a few tried-and-true picks to get you started. And while some serums come with a high price, there are definitely great affordable options out there, too. If you’re on a budget, invest in complex serums like retinol and vitamin C, and snag more affordable hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and other single-ingredient serums. This is because vitamin C and retinol are two ingredients that are notoriously unstable, so the formulation takes a bit more TLC, while simple serums are, well, simple. To ease your search, here are a few of our favorite serums by ingredient category:
